|
|
This shot shows the entire underside of the engine compartment. The
lower a-arms are from a 1990 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II. They are forged aluminum
and weigh just 4.2 lbs. Each. The steering rack is from a Datsun 240Z. The
steering rack is mounted with aluminum blocks in-between the front (white),
and rear (black) cross-members. The rear cross-member is removable. The
custom oil pan holds seven quarts of oil. The front swaybar is 1"
diameter, and is hollow with adjustable ends.
|
|
|
This shot shows a little more detail of the underside of the car. In the
center of the photograph, you can see the steering linkage going down to the
steering rack. You can also see how the lower frame tube was blended into
the factory frame rail. If you look carefully, you can also see the upper
aluminum a-arm. The scratches on the oil pan are from an unexpected off road
excursion earlier this summer.
|
|
|
This is the underside of the passenger side of the car. This side is a
little more busy since it has the alternator and starter mounted on this
side of the car.
|
|
|
This shot shows the front left hand corner of the underside of the
engine compartment. You can clearly see the front swaybar and the steering
rack in this shot. The shocks are aluminum and are height adjustable. They
use 8", 325 pound springs. The black rear cross-member is the lowest point
on the car. Everything else is mounted above that cross-member.
|
|
|
This picture is looking forward on the left side of the car. It clearly
shows the linkage going down to the steering rack. The height adjustable
shock and spring assembly are also clearly visible. You can see the upper
aluminum a-arm in this shot, it is from a Toyota Supra turbo. I am using the
factory liquid filled motor mounts to absorb vibration.
|
|
|
This shot is looking forward on the passenger side of the car. You can
see the oil drain is protected and is just slightly above the bottom of the
oil pan. The sender unit is for oil temperature. This shot also shows the
lower a-arm front mount really clearly.
|
|
|
This shot shows the modifications done to the backside of the modified
Mazda RX-7 Turbo II front spindle so it could accept the Toyota Supra upper
a-arm. The spindle has heavy gussets on each side.
|
|
|
This shot shows the back side of the aluminum Mazda RX-7 Turbo II, four
piston, aluminum calipers. I had the calipers powder coated red and the
finish has held up really well.
|
|
|
This is a shot of the rear suspension. Note the tight clearance on the
280ZX rear control arms. The wheels are 1994 300ZX alloys. (16x7.5) The rear
sway bar is a modified rear bar. The tires are Dunlop SP8000=92s (225/40/16)
The 510 cross-member has been modified to provide full camber and toe
changes with these ZX arms. The 280ZX rear control arms have factory disk
brakes which were redrilled to the five bolt 300ZX pattern (5x4.5") There
are no spacers or adapters here.
|
|
|
This shot shows the modified transmission cross-member. It provides
plenty of clearance for the exhaust tubes. I am using the stock rubber 300ZX
transmission insulator. As you look forwards towards the front of the car,
you can again see the rear engine compartment cross-member (black) which is
the lowest point on the car.
|
|
|
This picture show the modifications done to the firewall when we moved
the engine 3.5" back from where I originally had it mounted. (See the VG30
install pictures) The 300ZX engines intake plenum hangs off the back of the
engine and will hit the stock 510 firewall. By notching the firewall to
clear the plenum, you can move the engine farther back. Doing this
modification was not easy, a new upper firewall had to be built, the stock
wiper motor had to be moved, and the heater modifications were also
necessary. Note the wiper motor now faces the opposite way that a 510 one
does. This wiper motor if from a 1986 Mazda 626.
|
|
|
This shot show the other side of the firewall modifications. The
factory EGR valve has been removed for a cleaner look.
|
|
|
This picture shows the Tilton brake master cylinders. The brake system
has two master cylinders, one for the front sysytem and one for the rear
system. The brake system can be "tuned" with master cylinder sizes and the
bias can be adjusted from the inside with an adjuster. The clutch master
cylinder is a stock 510 part.
|
|
|
This picture shows the right side of the engine compartment. In the
lower part of the photograph you can see the mounts that the upper a-arms
attach to. This is where most of the suspension adjustments can be done. The
mounts are slotted so caster and camber adjustments can be done. The mounts
have an eccentric washer which rides between two pieces of square steel on
the back side. This ensures that the adjustments are repeatable each time.
|
|
|
This shot shows the aluminum cross flow radiator. It is from a
Volkswagen Jetta VR-6. This radiator is very efficient, and I have had no
cooling problems with it. There is a pusher fan located behind the front
grill for cooling the car when necessary. The fan is triggered by a factory
Volkswagen fan switch that is located in the radiator.
|
|
|
This picture shows what a 510 engine compartment looks like without the
strut towers. The intake tubing for the engine was shortened and modified to
keep as many things as possible off the inner fenders as possible. The
airflow meter and air filter is mounted off the engine as well. The air
filter is a K&N unit.
|
|
|
Another shot showing the engine compartment inner fender without the
strut towers.
|
|
|
Nice overall shot of the engine compartment. Notice how much cleaner
the engine compartment looks without the strut towers.
|
|
|
The front brakes are from a Mazda RX-7 Turbo II. The rotors are 11"
diameter. The calipers are aluminum, four piston units also from an RX-7.
The hubs are also made of aluminum. I am using carbon metallic brake pads.
|
|
|
Another shot showing the brakes and upper a-arm. The tire just rubs the
upper tube at full lock.
|
|
|
This picture shows the back side of the BMW projector beam headlights.
The headlights are very deep and need lots of modifications tot he headlight
and the body of the 510 to make them fit. It is worth the effort though!
The tube coming out of the top of the headlight assembly is for the "city
lights;" the low wattage bulbs that just light up the top part of the
headlights.
|